Bethlehem for Christmas

The night was anything but silent. A bright light (a passing satellite) shone above the manger underneath an ancient church building. Wise men sat around the square offering directions to tourists (for a small price). Shepherds without their flocks drank thick Arab coffee from tiny, disposable cups.

TV cameras and media crews scrambled through the crowded streets to find the perfect angle or interview. Stage lights focused attention on musical performers and away from the military presence pacing the rooftops with guns pointing down.

A strained nasal voice sang from a crackling speaker at the back of the square, causing everything (including the stage performance) to come to an abrupt halt. Christmas Eve paused as Muslims said their nightly prayers.

The prayers rang louder and truer than any other night, as if reminding everyone that despite this being Jesus’ birthplace, this was Muslim Palestinian territory now.

Bethlehem was not the “Biblical Christmas” one might expect. Don’t get me wrong - it was fun being there, but I didn’t get “holy goose bumps” or anything. Christmas in Bethlehem, for most people, is just an all-night party!

We went to Bethlehem to write about a modern day Christmas. In the course of the week, we met a “born again” Christian family and a Muslim-Christian family. We spent our time hanging out with both families. The differences between these two families in celebrating Christmas were day and night.

The Muslim-Christian family worked their tourist business, never stopping to really remember what day it was – other than to make a fast sale. For them, Christmas Eve and Christmas Day accounted for about 70 percent of their yearly business.

The “born again” family had a very simple Christmas with very few presents and focused on Jesus’ birth. They were forced out of their home in the Gaza Strip months ago when a Baptist leader was killed for his faith. They left with only the clothes on their backs. Their Christmas wish was to see family and friends from the small Baptist community in Gaza. Their wish came true!

For the media crew and I, well…what Christmas in Bethlehem would be complete without being told, “There’s no room in the Inn.” That’s right, on Christmas Eve, there was no room for us. The Inn Keeper offered us space in an unfinished apartment. He moved in a space heater and a couple of mattresses for us.